Each Culinary Artist Should Learn At This Spot’: Humble Turkish Eatery Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Best Food Spots.

When curating a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant area of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. This recognition has made the family utterly astonished.

“I’m completely astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that led to their small place earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary triumph.